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31 weeks 2 days ago - Hi,
Nice design, very
31 weeks 6 days ago - That's a difficult
32 weeks 6 days ago - I like your ideas of robot
33 weeks 33 min ago - That's pretty much how
33 weeks 34 min ago - Personally I feel a word's
33 weeks 35 min ago - I used very very small pager
34 weeks 1 day ago - I used very very small pager
34 weeks 1 day ago - This was one of the very few
35 weeks 13 hours ago - Another great nano! Saw this
35 weeks 13 hours ago
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What is meant by this video? there is no audio or explanation of what is going on? what is the device being used (besides the lidar unit on top)? Is the device autonomous or controlled by wires / the remote control ? could someone be nice enough to explain how they took the lidar unit and used it to map the path ? Thanks
Well what are we waiting for ? the paper talks about a $30 lidar unit. We can surely do something similar atleast in the beginning. If one had the resources one would certainly do it. They talk about this REVO LDS (lidar) but apparently it doesnt exist and no one is making something similar which is unfortunate.
Hi is anyone willing to sell their lidar unit once they are done with it ?
Xevel, one would like to know how you attached the unit to your movable platform (and what movable platform is it?)
Please email me directly at my user name above (arthuroforange ) that has an account at gmail. Thanks
Yeah u can go for it.
All you have to do is start with open Cv basics like hoe to recognise different objects, for that first of all work on color detection in OPEN CV.
AS soon as you completes this then start to work on hardware.You may be knowing about some of the basics of robotics???? Do you??
Then you can do is, start working for image processing first that is tracing objects in a still image, as soon as u finish this command over to the video processing which is only a little more than image processing.
Any other problems are welcomed !!
hey i want to made this. pls send me specification for this& procedure.
congrats for prize . I want to make this bot pls tell me specification for this.my email id is guptaniteshgupta@gmail.com.
I need number of projects based on these methodes cud u give some suggestion to get these
Video is private..
180 ° steering the robot, all-metal gears, dual bearings,
6V
7.4V
Size（mm）
Weight
Spee
Torque
Spee
Torque
A
B
C
D
E
g
oz
sec/60°
kg-cm
oz-in
sec/60°
kg-cm
oz-in
40.8
19.8
37.8
-
-
62
2.18
0.23
13.0
180.4
0.21
14.5
201.3
hi
how your robot??
my English is terrible
:)
Thank you. I hope to have some videos soon. The software I am developing in MS Visual Studio 2010, in Visual Basic. MS Robotics Studio uses the .net framework, so in that sense it is similar.
Looking good JR, any videos?
Would be keen to learn about your customizable AI software. Is it based around MS Robotics Studio or something similar?
I forgot to mention the eyes are a webcam and PING sonar unit from Parallax.
Thanks for adding your robot, do you have any pictures of it?
Hey guys. I located three patent applications by Neato. Tons of info and drawings. Good flow diagrams etc.
cameras are the important part of ones life by this we can save our memories and can watch them anytime and Nikon D400 is best according to quality
The base was cut from 6mm medium density fibre board (MDF) with a dremel and cutting bit. I made a jig with pieces of scrap timber to ensure that the cuts were accurate and smooth, and I cut all three decks at the same time. (The robot only has one deck so far.)
The wheels are small trolley wheels that I bought for a few dollars from the hardware store, however I sculpted and smoothed the centres with the dremel and a grinding wheel to get the clean lines. The unmodified wheels had radiating ridges which would have prevented them from being mounted on those hubs.
Another of my robots called "Ally" uses a larger type of trolley wheel which can be clearly seen in this photo on my home page where I used to post my robot projects http://asmith.id.au/ally-base.html
Good work Infurl. What did you use to cut the chassis of your robot? What is it made of? Those are also some nice looking wheels - are they from another product?
First we got the motor housing and the serving trey cleaned up and put back together. Then Steve Alaniz, one of our volunteers, got DC-1 running under remote control! There are pictures and a video here:
http://agc.dyndns-work.com/rep/robots/dc-1/
Look for:
2011-04-15 Motor base installed.jpg - the motor housing cleaned up and reinstalled.
DC-1 running.wmv, a short movie of DC-1 operating under remote control;
Steve Alaniz.JPG, who donated the remote control unit and 6 volt battery and made connectors to adapt to the older Futaba motor controls.
Steve's Wall-e.JPG, a picture of Steve’s personal project, a modified Wall-E toy.
For the time being I am using the store bought ones, however they are not without problems too.
The grub screws that came with them would not hold them on the shaft securely, even when glued, and I had to use 1/2" 4-40 screws which stand proud of the hub and risk getting caught on something as they turn.
Finding 4-40 screws is also a big problem if you happen to live somewhere that uses metric (i.e. almost everywhere).
I don't consider this to be a solved problem yet. I won't be buying any more hubs, but I'm not satisfied with the home made varieties either. The subject warrants further research and development.
So which motor bracket did you use? The u-chanel on your web site or the J bracket on the site you linked too or the store bought ones.
That J bracket looks nice and pretty easy to make as long as the motor shaft is long enough.
Fire Blow do good performance in Mindspark. reach the final round but lose there. Well it was a good experience for me
I am going to participate in Mindspark with this robot. So modifing it as requirement. The event is on 5-6 apr, so no much time. I will update photos and videos after the event....
The brownish stuff is cooked Radio Shack flux paste. I use it because it helps stick parts in place before I reflow. I've tried using my Kester flux pen but it doesn't seem to perform as well for reflow. I guess the 'right' way to do it is to use solder paste, so I might look into that in the future.
In the picture the circuit board looks kinda fried, brownish. Does this happen in the skillet?